We all know the 1st step to a plus size pants pattern that fits your curves is taking accurate body measurements. There are tutorials, videos, books and blogs that stress this everyday.
And it should be emphasized because even if you have the best sewing skills, if your measurements are wrong your pattern still won’t fit.
There are other important steps you should take to make sure your pattern fits. One key step to any well fitting sewing pattern is balance.
Why do I stress balancing your patterns so much? Because…
I almost lost my patternmaking job over unbalanced sewing patterns!
When I worked for Simplicity Patterns, they gave me 3 months to improve my patternmaking skills or I would be out of a job. I wasn’t meeting deadlines because I made so many adjustments without knowing what the real problem was. All those patternmaking classes I had in school never taught anything about balancing patterns, so my patternmaking skills did not meet Simplicity’s standards-in the beginning.
Well, I didn’t lose my job because I had a skilled coworker who was patient enough to teach me what I needed to know about balancing patterns and now I want to share that with you.
What does balancing your plus size pants pattern mean?
- The front and back pieces when matched (from the hem, up) at the side seams and inseams are the same shape and length
- The knee levels and crotch levels are in the same position on both pieces
- Numbers 1 & 2 are accomplished when the grainlines on the front piece and back piece are parallel to each other
Commercial patterns should already be balanced, but after any alterations it’s always good to double check them.
Watch the short video below where I give you a step-by-step tutorial on how to balance your plus size pants pattern.
If you haven’t read my blog post on how to balance your plus size (bodice) sewing pattern, you should check it out and watch that video also.
Do you have any tips, questions or comments? I’d love to hear them in the comments below.
Katrina,
I think “truing” the pattern is a better and more accurate word to describe the process of the final “tweaking” of the adjacent pattern pieces. “Truing” is the word used in the “garment industry”. I’ve never heard “balance” used in this way, and wonder if Simplicity Patterns, where you worked, did indeed, use “balanced”. Plus, “balance” has another meaning, entirely. It doesn’t have anything to do with matching the length and curve of the seam lines, and checking other parts of the pattern.
DO look up “truing a sewing pattern”.
Hi Jean, because you’ve never heard the term “balance” used in this way, it must be wrong? Balance is a common term used in both the Fashion and Sewing Industries. It’s also used in books, like “Patternmaking Made Easy” by Connie Amaden-Crawford. And yes, Simplicity Patterns also used this term. You may not agree with the use of the term, and that’s fine, but the tone of your comment is unnecessary.
S N A P!
Hello! First I want to thank this amazing tutorial, despite my difficulty in understanding the whole process, I’m Brazilian and not mastered English (unfortunately). I have a doubt: when I made a pattern according to my measurements, the pants formed a volume of nasty fabric in front, my measurements are plus size. Follow the step by step video Brazilian, little different from your video. You know how I can get this right? Thank you! Congratulations on your site!
Vania, from what you’ve told me, you may need to measure the center front of your body from the waist to your hip line and compare it to your pattern. If your waist is tilted, meaning it’s lower in the front than in the back, then your pattern has to be shortened in the front between your waist and hip line.
OK thank you! I will hit a clothes ready and redo my pattern. You are amazing and your website is a blessing! Thank you!
You’re so welcome, Vania.
Thank you for this post and video! I have been looking for tips like this. My slacks always turn out wonky. I have a question though. You say this technique is for plus sizes, but I imagine it would work for any size pant pattern, wouldn’t it?
Oh no, midwestslp, it’s not just for plus size patterns. Sorry if I gave that impression. You’re absolutely right, it’s for any size pant pattern. Balancing your pattern should get rid of the wonkyness (is that a word? Probably not). Great question, thanks for asking.
Thank you for your reply!
(dictionary says “wonkiness” but I like it with a “y” too!)
I typed “wonkiness” first but spell check disapproved, lol.
Thanks for posting these videos. I never heard of balancing a pattern. Seems like the fit on my pants and bodice pieces is always off. Now I know how to correct it.
You’re welcome, Robin. I wasn’t taught about balancing a pattern until my 2nd patternmaking job. It’s not something that taught a lot, it seems, so I had to share it with my sewing buddies. Thanks for watching.
I loved your tutorial. I live in Queretaro Mex. And want to lear more
Thank you, Rosa Maria. I’m glad you liked the tutorial and thank you for reading/watching.
Great . I want to know more about crotch . How to take measures and how much to add in the inside. Love for you from Queretaro Mexico.
Here’s a link that might help you, Rosa Maria – http://bit.ly/1GgUnEV. It’s a blog post about fitting pants from Colette Patterns. Just scroll down to the Hips and Crotch section. I hope this helps you. Love back at you!
Thank you is helpful
You have just given me the confidence to try making a pants pattern again. I believe that not balancing my pattern was the cause of my problems. Thank you.
You’re welcome, Bernie. I’m glad to here that. Balancing your pattern makes a big difference.
Hi Katrina, just stumbled onto your blog, and just love all your valuable hints and tips on the alterations and balancing of the commercial patterns. Thanks a ton, and will definitely be keeping an eye out for further info. Thank you, Denice
You’re welcome Denice and thank you for reading/watching and taking the time to comment.
Very helpful video thanks. Your graphics were really instructive, thanks.
You’re welcome, Glynne. Thanks for reading and watching.
This is SO HELPFUL. Not a huge problem when using industrial patterns, but I’m now using a German system, Lutterloh, and this is CRUCIAL!
Thank you, thank you. I’m dealing with pants right now, but will watch your other tutorials.
Do you send out email updates, tutorial links? I’d love to be connected.
[email protected]
You’re welcome, Primrose. I’m glad this was helpful to you.
I will add you to my email list right now. You will receive an email from me, Katrina Kay, asking you to confirm that you want to receive emails from me. Just click the link provided and you will be all set. If you don’t get this email from me within the next half hour, make sure you check your spam folder.
Good luck with your pants pattern!
I see you’ve already subscribed, Primrose. Great!
THANKS SO MUCH for your video
Do you balance all patterns? Dresses, blouses, jackets, or just pants?
Yes, Hilary, all patterns should be balanced. When you buy commercial patterns, they should already be balanced. The balance would only have to be checked after you make an alteration.
I love your information but I do not have sewing skills. I was wondering if you can recommend someone who will/can sew some pants for me. I find that all the current styles are so hugging. I want something a bit more drape’ie through the mid-section since I carry my weight there and fuller clean legs style.
Hi Terry, I recommend you find a seamstress in your local area so they can take your measurements and do all the fittings in person. You can do an Internet search or search in your local phone directory. Hope this helps.
Stumbling onto your website might just help me to love sewing again, Katrina. I have a hard-to-fit figure from waist to knees, and gave up pant-making eons ago. Thank you so much for your instructions on balancing pant pattern pieces.
You’re so welcome, Dee. Glad I could help. If you have any questions about pants pattern balancing or anything, let me know because I want you to love sewing again!
Thanks for the informative pants altering tutorial. I did try to click on the bright yellow “Subscribe” label, so that I would know when you have made more tutorials, but nothing happened. Thanks, again, for sharing your knowledge!
You’re welcome, Karen. I don’t know why the subscribe button didn’t work but here is a direct link for you. http://bit.ly/1sFkO0F. You should see a red subscribe button on the top right. Sorry about that!
Thank you so much Katrina. Your video is just what I’ve needed since gaining weight and trying {unsuccessfully} to alter pants patterns. I am looking forward to altering the correct way.
You’re welcome, Kathleen. I’m glad I could help. Good luck with your pants pattern.
Great info! What software are you using?
Thanks Janet, I’m using PatternMaster Boutique 5 (PMB5) by wildginger.com for creating patterns for women. They also have a version for creating patterns for men and one for creating patterns for children. They’re all sold separately.
Thanks! I will look into that. Right now I hand-draft/grade everything…..it gets tedious for sure!
To say that I loved your video is not enough. Now I understand what balancing means and how important it is. Merci beaucoup.
You are very welcome, Marie-Noëlle. What a wonderful comment to start my day off with.